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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. However, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.